Presenting... Whisky Sqaud Tasting #84

It was a long time coming, but I finally attended my first Whisky Squad tasting, run by

industry stalwarts Jason Standing and Billy Abbott, at the King and Queen in Fitzrovia. 14 whisky aficionados got together to discuss Non Age Statement Whiskies. So we started with a few ideas about where they fit in, or if they do at all, quality and what lies behind them, then started the tasting:

Whisky #1: Prime Blue (Morrison Bowmore blend made in 80s for Asian market)

-          Nose was fruity with marzipan and vanilla and developed toffee with time

-          Palate was richer than the nose, more wood influence, round in the mouth and was best without water

Whisky #2: Hakushu Distiller’s Reserve (from Japan)

-          Nose was sour fruits, citrus, green apple and nail polish, richer with time

-          Palate was sharp with a sweet finish then bitter length, very highball style

Whisky #3: Old Pulteney Duncansby Head (Travel Retail)

-          Nose is very malty, almost hops and bleu meat, gets sweeter with time

-          Palate is very spicy (46% abv), gets some round buttery rounds and has some furniture polish on finish, develops coffee on finish

Whisky #4: Talisker 57° North (NB very deep gold colour)

-          Sweet smoky bacon nose, described by others as drinking “hot dogs”

-          With water is develops Islay style bonfire notes and germoline profile but it is from Skye!

Whisky #5: Ancnoc Flaughter newly released peated range)

-          Lightly smoked like slow cooking lamb, sweet, polish, green apple, another big 46% abv

-          Sprightly little thing, smoke levels out to a gentle finish

-          WINNER OF THE TASTING FOR ME

Whisky #6: Glenmorangie Companta (limited release, sold out)

-          Lino, rubber nose with banana underneath and polish

-          Buttery bananas on the finish, metallic, nose definitely better than palate, 46% doesn’t show

 

Despite the newness of some of these whisky releases, NAS whiskies have been around for a while and will continue to lend another depth to an already fascinating range of age and vintage single distillery whiskies and blends too. I have found my favourite from this line up, try some yourself, especially fun on whisky "snob" friends who are rather too interested in age over liquid...

Presenting… Monkey Shoulder DIY Drinks Kitchen with The Bon Vivant

If I am honest, it was not the best start as this London Cocktail Week pop up was running both a bar upstairs and a DIY kitchen event downstairs and we were a bit confused which queue was which; most annoying when it is also raining. But we got there in the end, and joined the crowd around three large butcher block type wooden tables to enjoy an evening with The Bon Vivant’s team from Edinburgh.

Now this was all the way back in October so I cannot remember exact details, but I know there was:

- Cured salmon and pear

- Smoked duck and fig

-  Monkey shoulder infused Christmas cake

And along with all this food we watched then tried to replicate the cocktails we were taught, a mixture of stirred, shaken and then the infused whisky straight. Here are some lovely pics to give you an idea of the evening:

It was good, with a nice crowd of people and the cocktail styles covered all palates. However, we were just starving – and tipsy – by the end and the cake infused shot didn’t do it for us which was a shame – in theory it should have been fab. All I do know is that every time you go to Edinburgh, you should visit these guys. They really know their stuff. 

Presenting... Glenmorangie and Cigars at Boisdale

I'll be honest. The title of this article is rather a gentlemanly pursuit. And yes, there was only one female. That does not mean that this was not a completely unexpected night of great times. It was fab!

So, on a slightly shivery evening 10 of us, mainly cigar aficionados rather than whisky, sat down at Boisdale Canary Wharf's cigar terrace to get educated. Although mainly men, the average age was much lower than you'd expect, early thirties for most. Apparently, the trend for cigars is going the same way as whiskies; younger consumers are coming in both better educated and looking for more knowledge. 

We started with a fascinating break down of the cigar by Dan Pink of Hunters and Frankau, THE cigar wholesalers of the UK since 1790. He told us that the definition of a Cuban Cigar (still the world's best) is that 
(a) it is made in Cuba!
(b) it is hand rolled and 
(c) it is long filled...

Let me explain. You take apart a cigarette or a cheap cigar and the tobacco inside is all chopped up into shreds. You take apart a Cuban cigar and there are ONLY 5 leaves running the length of the whole thing, amazing! So once Dan had shown us (me) how to cut and light the cigar, this was paired with Glenmorangie Whiskies from the Highlands. 

(FYI The cigar was a Cohiba Madura 5 Genios)

There was the Original, the Lasanta, Quinta Ruban and Nectar D'Or. What was really interesting was that each whisky was the Original with 2 years in an additional finish. So the Lasanta was 2 years in Sherry casks and that added the spicy, slightly lino-y notes. Quinta Ruban - my favourite - was 2 years in Port. This lent a depth of colour and a sweetness. And Nectar D'Or was 2 years in Sauternes casks which I think is too tame a wine to lend much but everyone had their favourites. 

The surprise of the night was that the cigar - a "medium to full" - was really very enjoyable. Yes, I had to re-light it 4 times due to not drawing in smoke enough but as a first timer it was great! And Boisdale are far from the stuffy "Scottish" members club you may be imagining and is a modern airy space with great food and a stupendous bar with regular jazz to boot. Don't hesitate to book a (somewhat pricey) night here if any of this sounds appealing. You will not be disappointed. 

London Cocktail Week: The Candy Store

Callooh Callay + Colin Dunn = pure entertainment. 

And once again this dream team have come together to present Charlie's Chocolate Factory set in the Candy Store (that will also run in the Upstairs Bar until end of November).

The 'room through the wardrobe' offers "alcoholic candy floss"; we chose rum and gingerbread, and a vodka, almond and cherry. They tasted...sugary... but were still  a delicious treat. Tables were packed with strawberry laces, popcorn, bonbons, gumballs and boiled sweets to help yourself to. And the menu, specially developed for the installment with fabulous whisky cocktails, is innovative as well as offering flights of whiskies and chocolate pairings if you missed the classes this week. Oh and did I mention that its made of rice paper, so yes, its edible! 

We were then invited through the curtains and up the stairs to The Candy Store with its fabulous red and white striped wall paper and rows and rows of old sweet jars. The whisky line up was Johnnie Walker Black, Gold and Platinum and each was accompanied by a "bean to bar" chocolate morsel carefully considered by chocolatier Amy Woods. They were well matched, especially the last example which really added a biscuity almond element, but I have to say I would have enjoyed a good truffle more...

I like these whiskies the "wrong way round" with Gold at the top, Black then Platinum. But it was a mere whiff of Lagavulin that got the most appreciation in the room and made my plus one immediately declare himself for Islay. 

The cocktail menu here is why you should visit, immediately. If it is possible, I think this may be their best one yet! 

Presenting… World Whiskies (with Mark Thomson)

You may already have heard of Dramatic Whiskies. Or at least Drinking Classes; an initiative that has taken the UK by storm with small gin masterclasses in London now happening on a regular basis across 20 cities and expanding to cover whisky, tequila, rum and even aperitivos.

However Mark Thomson is now using his experience of the industry and making a bid for independence, running classes to his own speciality – whisky – and on a smaller scale. Why? To ensure that the person taking you through the class is a top class expert in their field. And this is what I was invited to, on World Whisky Day, so no Scotch here but all international offerings.

The event took place in the back room of Match – revamped and now led by the inimitable Andy Mil – and was a comfortable fit for about 30 people. Mark - jeans, t-shirt, brogues and stubble in case you are wondering if this is your tweed clad brand ambassador of yore, it’s not – started off with an extremely potted but enjoyable history of alcohol starting with the middle Eastern origins of the word which funnily enough I had never considered. We whizzed through the development in Scotland (and Ireland) of distilled spirits and then quickly cracked onto a smell (only!) of new make spirit, a bit of peat and a bit of cask to play with and an explanation of the process itself. The audience was mainly men – shame – and although the level of expertise was mixed Mark pitched this information in a fun easy-to-absorb manner.

So… world whisky #1

Ichiro’s “The Floor Malted” from Chichibu, Japan
3 years old and 50.5% at first it was just “different” though it was difficult to say why, development in the glass  led to pear and floral notes. Nice, not my favourite even after everything else was tasted

#2 Bain’s Cape Mountain from Wellington South Africa
5 years old and 43% this stunner asserted my love for grains. It was toffee flavoured, some cinnamon, oily and reminded me more of Irish that Scottish whisky, developed Christmas cake and brandy butter.

#3 Paul John “Brilliance” from Goa, India
3 ½ years old and 46%, this was the first UK consumer tasting and was quite European with sherry salty notes, will only be released in UK for now to develop "serious image"… interesting

#4 St Georges Chapter 11 from Norfolk, England
3 years old and 46%, this just feels wrong; South Africa – fine. England – bad form! The best I can say, despite prejudice, is  that this did not really impress. The exression was lightly peated, a little sweet, but no one asked for a second taste…

#5 Balcones Baby Blue from Wako Texas
Butter popcorn, sweet but also remains fruity. Really liked this too but been advised to look for the even better Brimstone so will report back!

#6 Limeburners Cask M98 from Albany South Australia
60% at cask and only 123 bottles IN THE WORLD. This was thick with lots of prunes and raisins but for the price against the day’s other winners (Bains, Balcones) it didn’t convince.

Thanks to Mark (and his assistant Rihana) for letting me taste such a diverse range of whiskies and opening up the world's offerings beyond Scotland. If you are interested in learning more visit dramaticwhisky.co.uk

A trip to Bristol and two gems… Hyde and Co (20/20) and The Woods (19/20)

Let’s start at Hyde and Co, the top of a steep hill for ladies in heels!

Location: 2 The Basement, Berkley Cresecent

Website: www.hydeandcobristol.net

Visit: Various mid-week evenings

To Note: It is “speakeasy” but following the address is easy and buzz to be let in

Scores
Ambiance: 5/5
Design: 5/5
Drinks: 5/5
Staff: 5/5
Extra LBS star: I’ll stick to top marks

The entrance

Now as I was writing up the scores I found I really could not fault this bar. And that is even taking into account how everyone I’d met told me how great the bar scene in Bristol is.

Once inside (a buzzer outside flashes the bar lights so you will not be disturbed once in) the space is nicely designed to feel like you can curl up in a corner for a tete-a-tete or pull up a chair at the bar and enjoy the skills of the bar staff. Lighting is subtle and comfy couches sit alongside low antique tables and large mottled mirrors; You know the style. The music is jazzy 20’s style but I would describe Bristol as “speak easy” by necessity. It is the spaces that offer themselves to this concept rather than bar owners going out to create a speakeasy. If that makes sense…

Spey Honey

The bar manager Mark is an absolute star handling drink orders with panache, never breaking off a conversation and he treated me to a tasty nip of aged Tapasita tequila, friend for life! The menu is intriguing enough to have a read rather than going off-piste and I would seriously recommend the Spey Honey made with Glenrothes whisky and plum liqueur – a favourite ingredient of mine. And whilst Mark makes the drinks the floor staff flit from table to table ensuring you have enough water, drinks and are generally content. Which everyone is.

So, one not to miss and onto…

The Woods

Location: 1 Park Street Avenue

Website: www.thewoodsnbar.co.uk  

Visit: Various mid-week evenings

To Note:  Another steep hill ladies but not so long!

Scores
Ambiance: 4/5
Design: 5/5
Drinks: 5/5
Staff: 5/5

I think if I get to revisit The Woods in summer, this will easily be a 20/20 with a courtyard to enjoy the warmer weather in. As is, this reminds me somewhat of Milk Thistle in Bristol (sister to Hyde&Co) with a grand country house style, dark green walls, the bar on the ground floor and a wooden balcony above overlooking this ground floor room and its walls lined with some interested skulls.  Similarly the seating is either leather couches or pull up a high stool at the bar. (I was also told that this venue really picks up later on with the ground floor packing out for dancing).

Their cocktail menus tend to go walk about so best just to have a chat with the very competent staff, and come armed with sweet/sour, long/short and a base spirit; let them do the rest. And if your base spirit is whisky or bourbon all the better because with over 100 you are spoilt for choice. I tried an oooold Bruichladdich as a special treat then their recommended – current – favourite bourbon, Rock Hill Farm

Staff were very happy to chat between making drinks whilst also being aware of other customers, the music etc, basically a well-run joint. So why the point off? As I mentioned I was not here at the right time, and a group of friends, half of whom were doing shots of Patron Café in the corner, seemed a little odd for a Wednesday 9pm. 

Another one to hit for a boogie once you have had your quiet chat at Hyde & Co.

Overall, Bristol has a lot to offer with Milk Thistle, Goldbrick House and Hausbar all pushing boundaries and great restaurants (try Cherry Duck) helping too

New Bar Opening: Mizuwari, Soho

Location: 16 Old Compton Street, W1D 4TL

Website: www.bincho.co.uk/whisky-joint 

To Visit: Open as restaurant, every day between 5pm and close. No bookings

To Note: Walk past the charcoal grill and its delicious smells towards the back then down the stairs

Mizuwari, which translates as “mixed with water”, has officially opened its doors; or at least the stairs that lead down from the back of Japanese grill restaurant Bincho Yakitori. Situated beside LAB on Old Compton Street, you need to walk to through the restaurant to the stairs to find this “1950’s Japan” inspired whisky joint. The room can hold about 40 people and is kitted out with low wooden tables and stools to match the wooden screens on the walls, set off by large swords as decoration.

This is the work of Suntory, and shows off their three expressions Yamazaki, Hakushu and Hibiki. And this is all they will be serving. But if you think that whisky is not “your thing” think again as their list of cocktails is very impressive from a simple twist of elder-flower and soda to a tea-ceremony type drink with wasabi paste. And if you are whisky-mad and this is your “died and gone to heaven” place, why not consider their bottle keep service? Buy your bottle now and it will be waiting for you with your name on each time you return. Just try not to over-do it with the most expensive option at over £500 a bottle! They also have decanters of water purified to an ancient recipe with high grade Japanese charcoal, the same as used upstairs, to water down some of those high abvs.

So if you are a fan of whisky, if you are a fan of cocktails or even if you are just a fan of some innovative (in London) Japanese cooking don’t forget the newest hidden drinking den. 

(Pictures courtesy of 360 Communications, the brill PR team behind Suntory UK)

Kyoto meets Edinburgh: Burns Night Japanese Style

We all know that the Japanese do whisky. And they do it well. So I was more than delighted to be invited to join Hakkasan CEO Niall Howard along with successful Scottish business (wo)men and “celebs” (courtesy of 360 Communications and Bacchus PR) for a Burns Supper with a unique Asian twist hosted at Chrysan.

Welcomed with traditional bag pipes – the Scottish ones, I know that the Japanese have their own version too – and a glass of Champagne, I opted for a non alcoholic drink (thank you Worship Street Whistling Shop for my boozy early evening!) and received a deliciously tropical Iced Tea with an orchid on top. I have to say this was a good call as what was to come was a real education in taste.

A mere two minute welcome speech led us straight into the meal, starting with a small “dish” that has sake poured into it. Well they said it was sake, it tasted like warm lychee tea and was the perfect palate cleanser with the warm flannels too. (I opted for a hand wipe, my neighbor went for a full facial wipe down!) Next was Tori Leekie soup (chicken, leek and ginger) with Suntory Hakushu 12 yr old and soda; this is very popular in the East as an introduction to whisky and palate cleansing too. The soup was fabulous, so was the whisky with a smoky hint coming out too.

Next was Nabe Burns – “Japanese haggis”, dashi turnips and wasabi potato salad – served with Suntory Yamazaki 18 yr old. Now, the Japanese do not have Haggis. However Niall had taken the ingredients to chef Daisuke Hayashi and with some Japanese spice and magic it become a delicious plate of nummy – official term - which was wiped clean. And the whisky? Something about the hand carved ice ball had a profound effect on the whisky beyond dilution. It was incredibly approachable and disappeared worryingly quickly.

And lastly, one of my food nemesis’ – Cranachan. If you don’t know it, it’s like we took Eton Mess, swapped the meringue for oats (?!) and threw in whisky and honey – hideous. Yet this was transformed – or deconstructed I should say. Firm whipped cream was encased in oats and topped with raspberry coulis, accompanied by macha ice cream, Hibiki soaked raspberries and honeycomb pieces. Drooling yet? This was accompanied by the star drink of the night – Suntory Hibiki Old Fashioned which my brother and dining partner had finished before dessert arrived!

Coffee was short and strong, toilets were heated and complicated to the point of fear. I loved both.

The best thing about this evening is that although Burn’s celebrations are over for another year, this was a trial run for Chrysan's larger plans next year to celebrate the --- anniversary of Kyoto and Edinburgh’s city twinning, So in about 11 months’ time when you start thinking about how to celebrate, Chrysan may well be doing something a little special and a lot tasty.

Slainte.

London Cocktail Week meets Chocolate Week

Chocolate Tales from Dean Street

It was in the steadily increasing rain that a small queue of chocolate and cocktail lovers were standing outside 68 Dean Street. This was a timely collaboration as these two important weeks met and what an event it was. I will mainly do this by pictures, because when it comes to chocolate and cocktails what more do you want?

On the ground floor we had Damian Allsop and Martin Millers Gin, with a two tunnel truffle with one blackcurrant meringue and one green tea covered in ganache to go with the deconstructed Bramble with a ganache and macha powder rim! 

Next floor up was the delectable Santa Teresa Rum (I discovered it last year) forming a Hot Buttered Rum which was divine and paired to another favourite - Rococo Chocolates - and their  salted rum truffle. 

They also had an orange and coffee based liqueur that have been added to their range to try. This is definitely a rum worth looking up. Next door Johnnie Walker Blue were doing their thing with William Curley, a much awarded chocolatier. Johnnie Walker was neat in this case, to work with the complexity of the dessert which was a creme brulee centered chocolate mousse on a whisky soaked raisin sponge base and apricot sauce. William was on hand and very helpful with all my little questions. 

Onwards and upwards to the top floor and the first room was an aperol spritz cocktail with a salted caramel disc from Artisan du Chocolat. The cocktail was served with a cocoa pulp sorbet that did not work well, and this was the room where I saw more leftovers than anywhere else where it was empty glasses ahoy! 

So then onto the final room and one of my favourite chocolatiers - Paul A Young, a name that all Londoners should be familiar with. He was working with AquaRiva tequila - very drinkable - and started us off with a Parmesan chocolate to balance and work with the salt, and then another, I forget which, but god it was tasty! 

Overall this was a lovely evening with everyone talking to each other, people by themselves, with friends, in groups and all determined to have a good time. And it was a dinner in itself if not the most healthy one! Bravo @donalde, Kate and the team for such a sterling effort and such a turn out. 

London Cocktail Week : Tuesday - Johnnie Walker

This is Kabir, the very tall Johnnie Walker Reserve ambassador who packed out the room downstairs from the London Cocktail Week hub. Literally, there were queues of people hoping to get a last minute space!

And in front of us we had three glasses, which we could not touch, as the barman (sorry, didn't catch the name!) from Quo Vadis was mixing us a up Sazerac to get us started. This was done with 50ml Johnnie Walker Black, 5ml sugar syrup, 2 dashes of Peychaud bitters all stirred and strained into a Chartreuse washed glass and garnished with  citrus twist. A lovely smokey/sweet balanced drink. Now down to business!


#1 Johnnie Walker Gold - deep orange/gold colour. Caramel and vanilla nose becomes a little cardboardy (?) with a touch of smoke. There is a lot of smoke and spice on the finish and with a creamy vanilla expression lingering too.

#2 Johnnie Walker Platinum - medium orange/gold, sour pears nose but somewhat artificial, develops more sweetness with time. Thick, smooth and long dry finish but a little disappointing, doesn't pack the punch with spice or flavour...bland?

#3 Johnnie Walker Blue - medium gold/orange, more complex with honey and a memory of smoke, sherried, orange peel, nutty, spicy... Less oily on palate, smokey finish, long, delicious

Little facts for you

• The main whisky in the gold blend is Clynelish, where gold was discovered in the water, hence the name
• The first blends that Johnnie Walker (original) sold were old in a red label and very old in a black label, hence the label colour calling nowadays 

Presenting…For One Night Only: Monkey Shoulder

I was delighted to attend the second event of the series that Monkey Shoulder are currently running in secret locations across London to the end of the year – this one was Whisky Punch. The invitation gave very little away with this tantalizing message:

“We’re hosting a rumble in the jungle! …Indulge in some ringside rivalry as you get in touch with your macho side. Train to get your speed (pouring) up to scratch, learn how to make a knockout punch…All the boxing puns you’d expect, none of the fighting.”

On arrival we had our names ticked off and when a little group had formed we were led into an East London warehouse and given our first brief along with drinks tokens and a boxing glove (I wish I could say each but they had run out!) First, a drink, a whisky drink, obviously. It was a Cold Whisky Punch by a 300 year old recipe made to the old mantra:

One part sour, two parts sweet, three parts strong, four parts weak

In other words lemon juice, sugar, whisky, water and some spice. David Wondrich would have been proud, it was delicious. We took a turn round the room, got pictures with the batman style “KAPOW” signs and then headed to the back room for some training for the tasks ahead.

(1)     Pare an orange: not too challenging, pare a nice piece of orange peel with as little pith as possible to earn the right to a Cut & Jab (with pineapple juice)

(2)     Flair: now we’re talking! Impress the bartender with your flair skills, either go
      for the straight up single rotation of the cocktail shaker or if you want to be fancy, try the sideways wrap around the wrist. This earned you an Uppercut  
      but it seems there was so much trouble getting it right here that they gave up 
      an hour in and just took your token!

(3)     Lastly, the one I found the hardest – speed pouring! Pour an exact 50ml serve for your Haymaker with the smokey Lagavulin. So the trick is counting but it seems that I am rather stingier than I thought and I am so glad that I have this skill now – yes, I think it is a skill to free pour 50ml!

And whilst all this was going on, besides having a really good chat with nice people and playing with this (go mental like with table football is the only way to win):

There was also…BOXING! Get up in pairs, pull on the sumo suits and have a go at your friend in 3 rounds. It looked great fun (although with some scary sounding thumps too!) but frankly after several people has braved the ring I was not prepared to brave the sweaty suits so just enjoyed the show. It all wrapped up just after 11pm but we had so much fun it seemed like it had lasted longer.

Great night, great drinks, great hosts (Thanks Olivier) and I cannot wait to sign up for further events before the year is out. The fireworks looks especially fun…

Presenting...Monkey Shoulder Chocolate Trail (for Easter only!)

Something is happening at 63 Broadwick Street...

 

Walk past the shelves and trolleys filled with curiosities and keep an eye out for the small brightly coloured wooden Easter eggs that are hidden in the foliage...

When you find one it relates (by colour) to one of these delicious libations

The charming bar tenders will whip you up your drink paired with a top class chocolate from Niko B chocolatier

And then enjoy whilst watching the Easter egg hunt continues around you

Open Easter Friday to Easter Monday inclusive from 12 to 7pm, free

Presenting... Scotch Malt Whisky Society

The SMWS did an offer last week to tie in with Whisky Live - join for their usual 100 GBP a year and as well as the membership pack that gives 4 x 10cl samples of various whiskies you get a bottle of Mortlach worth around 65 GBP. 

So before joining up I was invited to visit their London base (a further two are based in Edinburgh) which is 30 seconds from the rather nice area of Farringdon. The venue entrance is just off the main street, and above the well known Bleeding Heart Group which in fact also provides the food. Up a set of stairs you enter the main room, there is no reception here just a room of armchairs (think Ikea rather than Scottish Manor) and a bar with a staggering range of the SWMS whiskies to try. 

I started with an Innocent Gun - a new beer for me and utterly delicious with toffee notes from the whisky cask finish. Then a mushroom tart (yummy) was accompanied by three whiskies from a range of areas and an explanation of the menu. They are available by the bottle but more practically by the measurement and like a Yo! Sushi are priced by colour dot on the menu (with almost all at the red price (around 6.10) on a Friday - deal!

You get the chance to buy bottles throughout the year too but where are these from? The SWMS take special casks from around 127 distilleries and check them regularly to see if they are ready to bottle. They are numbered rather than named so 1.1 is the first cask from the first distillery and only the best get through with a cask that does not distinctly differ from the normal bottlings sent back for more time or sold back.

So if you are interested get in touch with the venue, take a quick tour and decide if 100GBP is worth a access to the widest range of malts that I have seen.

Presenting...Lagavulin across the years

As the trains rattled over head, over 60 people were gathered in the tunnel like rooms of Vinopolis to enjoy an evening of the flamboyant Colin Dunn and lovely Julian Lafond of Diageo as well as a tune from whisky fan and blues singer Tim Hain. Excitement was palpable as we took our seats, and at £45 a ticket this was understandable; this crowd (a prosperous looking suited/booted lot) expected big things.

So there was a natural division in the line up, in that the first three were “food matched”.

We started with the classic malt that the distillery is perhaps best known by: Lagavulin 16 Years Old 43% paired with Mrs Bells (thick and creamy!) Blue Cheese.

The nose was instantly recognizable with iodine and bonfire smoke followed by some citrus that comes through later. It is viscous and if you hold it in your mouth eventually the different layers will open up including burnt orange. The cheese softens and rounds the whisky but highlights the iodine notes.

Lagavulin 1995 Distillers Edition 43%

There is more sweetness – think treacle – on this one with a bonfire but sweet wood thrown on it. The dark chocolate truffle it was paired with highlights well the PX finish and warm spice comes through with a bitter chocolate edge. With more time it softens enough for citrus to show and finishes fresh. (We also tried 1927 PX to highlight the flavours that could be picked up in the whisky, it was wonderful!)

Lagavulin 12 Years Old (2011 bottling) 57.5%

An old Victorian fireplace came to mind when I smelt this and the 57.5% is certainly quite raw to start with leaving a fresh clean feel. There is a burn, there is also that iodine note but a distinct sweetness of vanilla comes through and with water this becomes smokier with a cereal/grain edge.  Paired with smoked venison it worked through crunchy texture, iodine notes and onto sweet toned down flavours.

SERVE: The inimitable Julien Lafond stepped up to present Smoke on the Water #2

This smoking (literally) cocktail blends Lagavulin 16 YO with Grand Marnier, Byrrh Gran Quinquina, Dark Chocoalte Bitters and a twist of orange and is finished with a scoop of Lady Grey and Lapsang Souchong Smoke.

Then we had a lovely song from Tim about the power of Lagavulin to bring him and his father together before it was round two with Lagavulin 12 Years Old (1980’s White Horse bottling) 43%. This is such a rare whisky that two different bottles needed to be found to pour for everyone – the horse bottling and the Italian bottling. What a difference! In the days before Lagavulin’s virtues were recognised it was basically given away in Italy with other better selling products like rum. This was seriously substandard whisky and if I had tried it I would never try it again so it did not do the brand any favours.

“Horse” was bustling with mango and passion fruit on the nose, whereas “Italian” was tinny and a little bit “corned beef”. Both started the palate flavours with coffee but Horse moved onto sweet fruits and smoke and Italian, although drinkable, was indistinct. They continued to shift and develop throughout the night and if only for interest I would suggest buying either version if you find it for a bit of tasting fun.

Lagavulin 12 Years Old Friends of Classic Malts 1995 48%

A mere 12,000 bottling with oak sherry casks used for maturation, there were clear sherry notes on the nose. A strange sensation in the month, the mid palate seems to fill with smoke and then disapate out to a soft, honey finish. This is so long and has a hint of sweet vanilla at the very end.

Lagavulin 21 Years Old 56.5%

Lastly this 21 year old was released in 2008 and has a chocolate orange nose. The iodine notes pack a punch at the back of the palate but it remains remarkably smooth and it very very long, maybe even longer than FOCM 12 year old.

Few Facts

Ever thought about the difference in a Highland and an Islay whisky and the fact they both use peat (though at different levels)? Well think about the heather and the bracken based peat in the Highlands vs brine and seaweed based peat on the island. They are cooked for different times, at different temperature and all these factors and more affect the flavour characteristics.

Many many many (!) thanks to Colin Dunn for always perfectly leading a room through Lagavulin, to the Whisky Exchange team for creating this experience and helping throughout and Whisky Exchange owner Sukhinder for the opportunity to attend. Do yourself a favour, get down there and buy get your hands on these whiskies whilst you can.

Slainte!